As we had an appointment at JC Leisure in Rye on 29 Sep, we started working our way across from Hampshire. We chose a site in Crowborough, which would enable us to visit Tunbridge Wells and Sissinghurst Castle. We went to Tunbridge Wells by bus, which was fine until we wanted to come home. The Covid restrictions meant that numbers on the bus were strictly limited, and we were refused entry on three buses before striking lucky. It is another affect on our lives, of this virus. However, we did enjoy the few hours we spent in Tunbridge Wells. We only explored the famous Pantiles area, but on a sunny day, it was very pleasant.
SISSINGHURST CASTLE GARDENS
The next day was spent at Sissinghurst Castle Gardens. The house was not open, but we were happy to enjoy the gardens. We also had a very nice National Trust cream tea, sitting out in the sunshine. The gardens are a bit overgrown, but this is probably due to Covid related volunteer issues. The buildings surrounding the grounds are very attractive and it was interesting to see the summer house overlooking the surrounding countryside, where Harold Nicolson (husband of Vita Sackville-West)did his writing. Sissinghurst Castle Garden, at Sissinghurst in the Weald of Kent in England, was created by Vita Sackville-West, poet and writer, and her husband Harold Nicolson, author and diplomat. It is among the most famous gardens in England and is designated Grade I on Historic England’s register of historic parks and gardens.
After Crowborough, we had a quick trip back to Portsmouth for a medical appointment, then spent a few days at East Hoathly. The campsite was in the countryside and was a peaceful spot for country walks. Our next stopover was at the campsite near Battle, which is a beautiful terraced site amongst trees and with lovely views over the countryside. It is a convenient site for a nice drive to Rye.
Rye is such a lovely place, it is no hardship to be forced to return for work on the van. It is a bit of a walk into the town from the dealership but is a reasonable stroll to Rye Harbour Village. We had a walk there to start with once the van was dropped off. Disappointingly, there was nothing open so we were not able to have a cup of tea and a cake. After a look at the water, we decided to call a taxi to take us into town. The taxi driver was very helpful and dropped us at his favourite tea room.
We enjoyed a wander around historic Rye with it’s attractive buildings and cobbled streets.
Rye is an English town near the coast in East Sussex. In the centre, cobbled lanes like Mermaid Street are lined with medieval, half-timbered houses. The redbrick Lamb House was once owned by writer Henry James. Nearby, the tower of the Norman St. Mary’s Church overlooks the town. The 14th-century Ypres Tower, which formed part of Rye’s defences, is now Rye Castle Museum, with paintings and displays on local history.
Back at the dealership, we collected our fixed van, and the carpets which had been professionally cleaned. We were very grateful next day when the weather turned a bit chilly and damp and we had lovely warm, homely carpets to keep our feet warm! It was now time to leave East Sussex and make our way, via Gosport, to visit Suzanne and family in Wantage then the rest of the family in Bedfordshire. We also caught up with some friends and swapped our Summer wardrobes for Autumn clothes at Clyde’s sister’s house.
Although we had been on campsites and visiting towns and National Trust properties, we were still very much restricted by the Covid regulations. The rule of six people indoors together has prevented any of our usual family gatherings and the children have had their activities curtailed and education interrupted.
It was now mid October and we decided on a visit to Cheddar for a change of scene. The campsite was very attractive and situated a short walk from the village. We did not visit the gorge as we have been before, but took the opportunity to get the bus to Glastonbury and Wells.
Cheddar is a large village and civil parish in the Sedgemoor district of the English county of Somerset. It is situated on the southern edge of the Mendip Hills, 9 miles north-west of Wells, 11 miles south-east of Weston-super-Mare and 18 miles south-west of Bristol. Wikipedia
The parish church is behind the campsite and I enjoyed hearing the bells from “home”. The walk into the village was along the footpath behind the site and away from the rather narrow road that snaked between the buildings on the edge of the village. There is a small river running around the campsite which is very picturesque.
We caught the bus to Glastonbury and were grateful, as we could both enjoy the fabulous views in all directions. The town is well known for it’s alternative therapies and lifestyles. It is also home to the famous music festival. There are a wide variety of small shops and decorative courtyards to explore.
Glastonbury is a town in southwest England. It’s known for its ancient and medieval sites, many rich in myth. Glastonbury Tor is a tower-topped hill linked to Arthurian legend, overlooking the marshy Somerset Levels. Once said to be King Arthur’s burial place, Glastonbury Abbey is a ruined monastery dating to the 7th century. Nearby, centuries-old Glastonbury Tribunal has a museum with Iron Age artefacts. ― Google
From the lower end of the main street, we could see the Tor on the hill. We decided against visiting the Abbey and walking up to the Tor, as it was a bit steep for Clyde, still awaiting his knee replacement. Instead, I had an interesting visit to the Tourist Information office and a chat with the TI lady.
We have visited Wells before and enjoyed a visit to the Cathedral. This visit was a bit short as we were relying on the buses which were not very plentiful. The bus from Cheddar was very late and we had just decided to forget it, when it turned up. That left only 90 minutes in Wells before the last bus back. We had a quick visit to the town centre and the Bishops Palace grounds before dashing back to the bus station. It was another scenic bus journey to enjoy, even if we dipped out a bit on the delights of Wells.
After a few days at Cheddar, we spent some time visiting the children and grandchildren in Havant, Wantage and Great Barford. Whilst we were on the campsite at Southbourne, having arrived on 2 November to await an operation on my hand in Portsmouth on 10th, another lockdown was announced and we were to be ejected from the site on 4th! We had no idea what to do this time and phoned the Caravan and Motorhome Club to see if they were offering refuge. We dashed up to Great Barford for the night and celebrated Jessica’s birthday (a bonus!). Whilst there we had a call to say that we could go to Rookesbury Park campsite near Wickham. It was a huge relief and we travelled back to Hampshire to set up home for a few weeks.
I am writing this in March 21, so it will be a gallop through our strange Summer and Autumn.
July 4th saw us happily collecting our replacement motorhome from the dealership in Rye. We had bought it remotely, with lots of pictures and a video tour provided by the salesman. We enjoyed a two night stay on a campsite near Ashford to make sure we were happy with everything. It was so exciting to be away from Bedford at last, and on a campsite with other happy campers. The campsites were delighted to be able to open again, and people who had been forced to cancel their usual foreign holidays due to the ongoing pandemic, had taken to the roads in campervans and towing caravans. It remains to be seen whether they have been converted.
Back at Great Barford, near Bedford, we spent a very busy day loading up and a visit to the weighbridge. Shock, horror, we were very overweight! There followed a few weeks of discussion with the dealership whether we should return the van, have bits removed, or up-plate to 3850 kg. Not easy, as Clyde no longer has a C1 licence which means I have to do all the driving.
In the meantime, we left a lot of our kit in Sarah’s garage
in Great Barford to reduce the weight, and set off to enjoy the Summer. Eventually we had the van up-plated and
accepted that I would now be the sole driver.
As the Summer progressed we were able to have cautious meetings with family and friends, mostly outside. It was so lovely to spend time with our grandchildren again. We also managed some trips away, in between hospital appointments for Clyde.
One of our regular haunts became the campsite at Southbourne in Hampshire. This is a handy place for visits to Gosport and to our son in Havant. It is within Chichester Harbour and there are some lovely walks to be enjoyed around the harbour in both directions.
The remainder of July was spent on campsites in the south, gently enjoying a bit of freedom but constantly guarding against the virus. We became accustomed to social distancing, wearing masks and keeping ourselves and other people safe. That has not really changed as I write this in Mar 21.
We started the month with a few family gatherings, outside as per the regulations. We had a fabulous, very hot, day with Suzanne, Alec, Frankie and Sylvie at Bowood House adventure playground. The children thoroughly enjoyed the playground, which was restricted via timed tickets to keep numbers down. After their timeslot was over, we had our picnic overlooking the lake. We then had a lovely garden party for Elijah’s first birthday.
This was followed by a glorious trip to the beach on Hayling Island with Suz and the children.
As if to make up for the continuing Covid restrictions, the weather remained glorious throughout the Summer. It was a treat to be in England enjoying the opportunities to see family and friends, always at a safe distance, but face to face after so long apart. We made the most of the chance to visit places we had either not visited for many years, or had never been before.
Here is a small selection:
Rutland is the smallest county in England and has an enormous and very scenic reservoir. From the campsite just outside Stamford, we explored the various visitor centres around the reservoir. We were also able to meet up with more of our family whilst enjoying the great outdoors.
From Rutland we went to Suffolk and spent a week on a campsite at Polstead. From here we visited Lavenham, Clare and Frinton-on-Sea. The weather took a bit of a dive and we had some heavy rain and winds. However, it did not dampen our spirits and we managed a few hours with old friends in Clare.
This is a very pretty town dating back to the Middle Ages and built around the wool trade. It is widely acknowledged as the best example of a medieval wool town in England.
Most of the buildings in Lavenham today date from the 15th century, many of these were never altered due to the fall of the weaving industry. Consequently the town is still very much on the same scale as it must have been in the 15th century. The Guildhall is the dominant feature in the centre. We had a cream tea in the National Trust tearoom adjoining the Guildhall. Sadly, due to the ongoing restrictions, the hall was not open for visitors.
Frinton on Sea
Back to the fine weather, we decided on a trip to the seaside. I had fond memories of family trips to Frinton, as a child growing up in Suffolk. It seems to have become a lot more busy in the intervening 50 years! I really struggled to find somewhere to park the van. However, faint heart never won fair lady (old saying!). I suddenly spotted a space on the side of the road across from the seafront. We had our sandwiches sitting on a bench overlooking the famous beach huts. A very pleasant and relaxing (once parked) day by the sea.
Clare in Suffolk
This is Suffolk’s smallest town. During the 14th century the Castle was home to one of the wealthiest women in England. Clare was very prosperous in Medieval times as it was a centre for the wool and cloth trade, and the Church and many of the listed houses were built then using the wealth brought to the town. The church of St Peter and St Paul is a very dominant feature in the town, and on the edge of town is the old railway in the country park with great views over the town from the castle ruins. Lots of history in a very compact Medieval wool town.
Again, it was many a long year since I had visited Clare. It was lovely to meet up with some old friends here and have tea and cake on a bench by the old railway buildings. Take away only, due to Covid restrictions.
After Suffolk we had a brief stay in Winchcombe in the Cotswolds, before heading over to Isle of Wight to meet Sarah, Chris, Molly and Jessica on a campsite for a few days. We stopped off for a night in Gosport on the way and had a visit to Stokes Bay. Always a joy to be here.
Our trip across the Solent next day was lovely with sun shining and views of Portsmouth to enjoy. The Spinnaker Tower was impressive as ever and Old Portsmouth was looking attractive in the sun.
We arrived at the campsite in time to walk to the local pub for Sunday roast. We sat in the garden in the sun and caught up with the family news. By staying on the same campsite we were able to spend more time with the family as all campsites had restrictions on visitors. Sandown was close by and we all enjoyed our beach visits. Chris had his metal detecting kit with him and the beach was a reasonable hunting ground. There was also a lovely cliff top walk, from the campsite to Sandown in one direction, and to Bembridge in the other.
After a great few days with the family, we waved them goodbye as they returned home. We moved on to a touring site at Freshwater to complete our fortnight on the Island.
We had some lovely trips out from Freshwater, along the coast road and by bus to Yarmouth, Cowes and the Needles.
All too soon it was time to head back across the Solent. We spent a week catching up with medical appointments and visiting family and friends. We had developed a problem with the front passenger seat, which necessitated a visit to the dealership at Rye. After getting an emergency fix done in Portsmouth to keep us going, we booked a couple of campsites in East Sussex and cancelled plans to visit Suzanne and family in Wantage. A bit disappointing, but these things are sent to try us!
Due to my ineptitude, I have had to repost 4 posts from last year. I had created pages for these, but found that my followers could not find them. I had to copy them and turn them into posts. They are, therefore, out of date order. I hope this is not too confusing.
We are currently on a campsite in Southbourne, near Chichester, keeping as safe as possible. The virus is still very much here, and life is not back to normal. These are strange times.
By the third week in July we had the van back, complete with new floor, and we were ready to get our lives back. After a visit to Wantage, we treated ourselves to a break in Cheltenham. The most convenient place to stay was Cheltenham Racecourse, where the Caravan and Motorhome Club run a campsite. We had a pitch on the rails with sweeping views across the countryside. It was very exposed when the temperature reached 37.5 degrees!
We had one excursion into Cheltenham itself and simply enjoyed walking through the parks and the main streets. Of especial note is The Promenade and Montpelier. These are tree lined and historic areas great for shopping and eating. It has a very refined atmosphere! We also explored the Suffolks and Tivoli which are also full of independent shops and eateries.
Whilst we awaited the arrival of Marcus and Chantelle’s baby, we visited relatives and pottered about between Bedford and Havant with odd excursions to Gosport. Suzanne and the children came to spend a day on Hayling Island and baby Chilestone arrived the next day. All very exciting.
Other than some time spent on a dodgy campsite on Hayling Island, a nicer time on a CL at Nutbourne, and a short stay at Pevensey, we enjoyed a few days at Canterbury. I went to university at Canterbury in the 1970s and it was a treat to go back for a visit. It was full of tourists and no students as it was still the holidays. We did not fork out a fortune to visit the cathedral but enjoyed exploring the city and in particular, the Westgate Gardens. It was a surprise to me to see punts on the river. I definitely didn’t see anything like that when I was a student. We also visited my old college which has changed a bit but still has the same church in the centre.
After the blast of nostalgia for me, we returned to Havant for a last few cuddles with Elijah and prepared ourselves for our trip to France and Germany.
We had a vague plan to drive down the Romantische Strasse in Germany, but having already sidetracked ourselves, we thought a stopover in Belgium would be rather lovely. Not expecting to spend any time in Belgium, we did not have a road atlas other than the rather sketchy Europe map. It made things very interesting and I discovered that our new campervan sat nav is not fully functioning. Luckily, I had brought the old Garmin along, and it was pressed back into service.
I rather fancied a visit to Namur and a look at the ACSI camping book came up with a reasonably priced touring park near Namur. Thanks to said sketchy road atlas, this proved to be misleading and we ended up much further south. However, the little village of Mouzaive on the river Semois was a lovely spot for a couple of nights of peace and quiet.
Undoubtedly, the region of Wallonia is beautiful and worthy of a longer stay than we had. There is plenty to explore if you like walking and cycling. Our stay was brief but relaxing and we will return to visit Namur another time.
Our journey into Germany was now via Luxembourg. We have visited before so did not stop, but we enjoyed the scenery along the way. As we climbed out of the Semois valley, we enjoyed some stunning views. We stopped at Rochehaut in the Bouillon region to enjoy the views down over the Semois valley.
This area, which is in the Duchy of Luxembourg, is a land of forests criss-crossed by footpaths, with an ancient feel to it. No walking for us, so we pressed on through Luxembourg to Germany.
At last we managed to escape the UK for a bit of European travel whilst we awaited a date for Clyde’s knee operation. We booked a ferry for 26 August and a return for 4 October, which gave us 6 weeks to wander about France, Belgium and Germany.
First destination was Arras, as we had decided to do a bit of war grave visiting. Arras is on the circuit and described as very attractive, so we stopped on the aire for a couple of nights. It was a reasonable stroll into the town and was indeed quite attractive. There are two main large squares and several smaller ones. The cathedral was a disappointment but the squares were lovely and the Town Hall was very impressive. We were hoping to be impressed by the interior of the Town Hall but, we were denied entry as we were too late and had not joined a tour. Just our luck!
Le Touret War Memorial
This was a great moment as Clyde’s Grandfather was killed in the First World War, in France. His sister had tracked down his memorial to a cemetery in Le Touret, and we were on a mission to find it. This part of France is littered with war graves and memorials to men from countries all over the world. It is truly sobering to see the scale of death and destruction. So many young lives were lost and families affected forever. Clyde’s father was born after the death of his father, and therefore started life, as thousands of other children did, in a grieving family.
The memorial is situated in beautiful, peaceful French countryside. It is a glorious memorial building and Joseph Campouser is named on one of the many tablets. He is also one of thousands with no grave.
We were so pleased to have had the opportunity to visit this place. Clyde is the first member of his family to ever visit this memorial to his Grandfather and he was very moved by the experience.
As we were so close to Ypres in Belgium, we decided to pay a visit and attend the daily ceremony at the Menin Gate. We stayed on a campsite nearby, the one on the edge of town was full, and we drove to Ypres town late afternoon and parked just along from the gate. The town is not very big but has a pleasant town square and attractive buildings including the old town hall.
We walked up the steps of the Menin Gate and looked at the thousands of names engraved on the walls. More than 54000 Commonwealth servicemen were killed in the Ypres Salient during the First World War who have no known grave. The Menin Gate was unveiled by Lord Plumer in a ceremony on 24 July 1927 that was attended by veterans and relatives of the missing.
In his speech, Lord Plumer declared:”Now it can be said of each one in whose honour we are assembled here today:’He is not missing, he is here’.” At the end of the service, buglers sounded the “Last Post”, a tradition that continues today.
On the day we visited, there was a male voice choir singing as well as the Last Post played by 3 buglers. It was a haunting sound echoing around the walls.
After a few days of driving around the old war grave sites and experiencing the way that these men are remembered in foreign fields, we continued our journey through Belgium.
This is our first visit to Germany since we moved back to the UK in Feb 2010 and we were very excited to be back. Our plan was to drive along the Romantische Strasse as we had completed some of it in our MX5 many years ago and thought it would be different to be able to park up in the campervan in some of the most scenic places. Rather than dash to the start of the Romantische Strasse, we decided to spend some time on the Mosel, and headed for Bernkastel-Kues. As we drove over the bridge at Zeltingen, en route, I spotted a stellplatze right by the river. We quickly changed our plan and swung in to grab a riverside pitch.
It was a beautiful sunny day and the river was looking gorgeous. Zeltingen is a typical wine producing town, picturesque and with a backdrop of vineyards. We enjoyed two nights here and found it hard to tear ourselves away. We even treated ourselves to a meal out in a restaurant overlooking the river. Not something we do very often!
Feeling that we should get moving, we moved a whole 4.5 kilometers along the road to a touring site within walking distance of Bernkastel-Kues. Although it was not quite as scenic we still managed a riverside pitch and stayed for 2 nights, just long enough for a quick visit to the town.
We have been here before but it was still rather lovely . It is one of the more touristy towns and there were a few Oriental visitors getting in the way as they posed themselves in front of the various attractions. However, it was nice to see a bit of bustling activity. There are the usual half timbered buildings which are quirky and pretty, and you can walk through to the vineyard covered hills beyond. The river is busy here with river cruise boats and day trip boats coming and going.
This is a very picturesque and much photographed Mosel town. There are others just as lovely.
Our next stop was Senheim near Cochem. The plan here was to stay on a campsite where we could get the washing done and hung out to dry whilst bussing into Cochem. The campsite we chose is a Dutch run site and therefore, very orderly. It was also very full with mostly Dutch people. Not a problem, at least we got one of a few remaining pitches and a river view between some caravans. The weather let us down here and we didn’t go into Cochem. We did manage to dodge the showers and walk into the village for a look around. Not much here apart from a winery offering tasting tours, and a few eateries. The walk along the river was pleasant enough and the view across to the neighbouring village was pretty in the evening.
It was time to move on again, otherwise we were never going to get to the Romantische Strasse. We drove along the Mosel through some gorgeous villages where the stellplatz were bustling, and we were very tempted to stop for a while. However, we felt we must stick to our plan and promised ourselves a return visit. We headed across country, over the hills and finally arrived at Wurzburg which is at the start of the Romantische Strasse.
Once again we struck lucky with our spot on the stellplatz. We arrived to find it was full and had just parked in a normal car parking place when, to our delight, someone decided to leave. We quickly spun our seats round and shifted onto a river front spot. We also had electricity so we were able to charge all our devices and save on our gas. This becomes more exciting, the more we live off grid!
Now we were settled, we walked along the river and over the Alte Main Brucke, into the heart of the city. By now it was early evening and folk were enjoying glasses of local wine as they strolled across the bridge. It was a lovely atmosphere on a beautiful late summers evening. We also enjoyed watching the cruise boats passing through the lock under the bridge and very close to our van on the stellplatz.
There is a lot to see in Wurzburg including the Residenz, which is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. We needed a full day to visit The Residenz, so we had a day following the walking tour guide around Wurzburg and a day dedicated to The Residenz. The Fortress Marienberg which is on the hill overlooking Wurzburg had to be added to our future list.
Here are a few of the best bits that we saw on our walk round. We were staying close enough to be able to go back to the van for a couple of hours before heading back into town to enjoy the evening atmosphere.
The visit to the Residenz and the Court Garden was our aim for the next day. It was a 30 minute walk through the town and we arrived just in time for a guided tour in English. No photos were allowed inside the building so we bought a postcard! It was rather relaxing just listening to the guide and marvelling at the ostentatious decor. The mirror room was the most amazing sight. Much of the building has undergone restoration since a devastating fire in 1945 which has cost a fortune and I am sure is helped by the contributions of visitors. The staircase is also a wondrous sight. It is an unsupported vaulted roof which was decorated by Venetian Giovanni Battista Tiepolo in 1752/3. The ceiling fresco represents the four continents and is one of the largest frescoes ever created.
We had to satisfy our photographic desire by taking pictures of the outside. It is a big place and the grounds are not extensive so we managed to find a bench on which to eat our sandwiches.
We had a cup of very expensive coffee in the restaurant and made our way back to the aire. Altogether a very pleasant couple of days. In the tourist office we had picked up a guide to the Romantic Road. It has a map and brief details of all the participating places. We did not realise that there are 29 destinations along the route! We decided quite quickly that we would need to be selective.
Bad Mergentheim is the former town of residence of the Grand and German Masters of the order of Teutonic Knights. It has a castle of the Teutonic Order with a chapel and museum. From our parking place near the stellplatz across the park from the town, we walked through the castle grounds and gateway into the town. The market place is home to some fine half-timbered houses and Baroque palaces. The town has a reputation for its spa and wellness focus.
We did not think there was enough here to keep us overnight, so we did not stay on the stellplatz. We moved on to our next stop at Rothenburg ready to immerse ourselves in a feast of Medieval delight.
ROTHENBURG ob der TAUBER
We had a tricky time getting round the old town and onto the right road for the stellplatz. The sat nav wanted to direct us through the narrow archways and through the pretty cobbled streets. Eventually, instinct paid off and we arrived safely. The stellplatz was extremely busy but we managed to find a spot for the night. In the morning, there was the usual movement and we dashed into a newly vacant spot with a grass verge and electric. It is not essential for us to have electric but, it is a bonus if we can keep things charged, such as the camera battery and the phones.
Once settled on the first evening, we walked into the town through one of the town gates in the wall. From here you can access the town wall via the Spital Bastion or walk up one of the most photographed streets in Germany, Spitalgasse. Rothenburg is a really beautiful Medieval town with an interesting history. It became a commercial centre in the 12th century, due to its position, and in 1274 it was elevated to a Free Imperial City by King Rudolph of Habsburg. In 1618-48, it was a victim of the 30 years war then was only saved from invasion by the Meistertrunk (Master draught). In 1945 40% of the buildings were destroyed in a bombing attack by allied forces. Financial support from around the world enabled the destroyed areas to be restored.
Our first day was spent in the town and the Burggarten. There were plenty of visitors giving the place a buzz, mostly American for a change. The Christmas shops were in full swing and doing a roaring trade. There are so many attractive buildings, it is an absorbing place to visit. The only slight disappointment was the glockenspiel. The two figures that appear when the doors open do not come out. I think we were spoiled by the really exciting one in Goslar.
At 8pm every day, there is a night watchman tour of the city. I attended the tour on our first full day there, with a neighbour from the stellplatz, whilst Clyde and her husband sat in the market square with a beer. It helped to get a feeling for the history of the place and I revisited some of the parts the next day in daylight.
On our second day, we did the walk around as much of the walls as we could access. There are 7 towers still accessible and one of them is open for you to climb up and view the town from the top.
Altogether, Rothenburg is a truly worthwhile stop on the Romantische Strasse and one we would not have wanted to miss.
On our way to our next stop at Dinkelsbuhl, we paused at Feuchtwangen and Schillingsfurst, as they are on the Romantic Road list. Both small places, the view from the Schloss at Feuchtwangen was best bit for us, as we did not visit the schloss itself. There was a great atmosphere in Schillingsfurst as it was a family fun run day. The local band were there playing good old German music to cheer things along. We stood and applauded the runners for a while before moving on.
We decided on a campsite at Dinkelsbuhl so I could get some washing done. I booked in advance for once and when we arrived, I discovered I had booked a site near Munich with the same name!! Last time I do that, as I lost my £4.50 deposit!
It was a 20 minute walk into the town, which is more compact than Rothenburg but also Medieval with lots of unspoiled buildings. The streets are wider which gives it a different feel. We had a wander round and then enjoyed an iced coffee overlooking the main street.
Dinkelsbuhl had a different atmosphere from Rothenburg. It was not nearly as busy or touristy and was a lovely relaxing place to enjoy for a few hours.
This was another short stay for us as it was not very exciting. We managed to squeeze onto the free stellplatz, where we bumped into some people who had been at Rothenburg. We had a walk into the town, were slightly disappointed by the glockenspiel at 1630, visited the cathedral and back to the van via a riverside cafe for coffee. The weather was not so bright which probably coloured our view!
NEUBERG AN DER DANAU
By now, we fancied a change from the Romantic Road and made for the Danube. We stopped at Neuberg with the idea of strolling by the Danube and visiting the Schloss. We were happy with the stellplatz, as it was on the banks of the river and had a great view of the schloss.
Sadly, this was another of those places that look better from the outside. We paid to go in the schloss and were disappointed by the lack of anything decorative within. The courtyard had interesting painted walls which were unlike anything we had seen before.
There is a compact old town with some attractive buildings but, when we were there, it was deserted. The lack of people made it feel unattractive and we were not inclined to linger.
The best part of this visit for us was the view of the schloss across the river, and the stellplatz where we relaxed in the sun.
Back on task, we went to Augsburg. It was a 30 minute walk into the centre from the stellplatz which we did twice. It was not good for Clyde’s knee so we limited the walking around Augsburg and focussed on the central parts. This is a university town and has a lively feel to it. The central square was busy and on our second visit, there was a peaceful, but musical, demonstration taking place in recognition of the world climate justice protest.
Augsburg has an interesting history and we visited the Fugger and Welser museum to see how the two families had contributed to the development of the city through their trading and banking activities. The grand Maximilianstrasse has some lovely buildings and I also visited the Fuggerei. This was the 1st social housing complex in the world, set up by the Fuggers in 1521. It is still operating today and is a most interesting place to visit. I am not sure what the residents feel about living in a museum with people walking past their windows having a good look and taking photos!
Inside the Rathaus is the renovated Golden Saal. It is used for grand occasions and weddings. It is certainly an impressive sight. We paid to go in and have a look. Not to be missed!
It was time to move on. There is a lot of the Romantische Strasse to cover!
Augsburgh exhausted, we looked at our Romantische Strasse leaflet again and plumped for a visit to somewhere more countrified. Rottenbuch seemed to fit the bill so we decided to spend a couple of days on the ACSI site there, get the washing done, and explore the local area.
The first afternoon there, we walked into the village. It is not very big but there are some lovely walks in the area. The village is mostly comprised of the Klosterhof and is extremely charming. We stepped through the creaky door of the rather plain looking church and our eyes popped out. What a stunning interior! This was definitely the highlight of the village.
Next day, we went to visit Schloss Linderhof, which is a 30 minute drive away through very pretty countryside. The schloss grounds are extensive but only a relatively small area is devoted to formal gardens. The schloss is very small and was built by King Ludwig 11. It was the only palace that was finished in his lifetime and he actually lived there for part of the time. He was a strange character who did not like people much and preferred his own company so he had small rooms for receiving guests as large gatherings were not his thing. The rooms that ae available for visiting, by guided tour only, are sumptious Roccoco afairs. The mirrored room is astonishing but as you are not permitted to take photos in the Palace, I have no evidence to share here. We enjoyed the flora fountain in the front courtyard but the cascade is undergoing renovation so it was closed off. The views from the top of the staircase in front of the palace are also very pleasing.
On the way home we stopped for a cup of tea by a lake which was very busy with locals enjoying a swim and boating activities. Back at the campsite, my washing was dry. Just as well as it rained all the next day. We used the time to do some planning and decided to extend our stay in Europe by two weeks.
As we were initially planning to drive down to Monaco in France, we thought a stay by the Bodensee would make a convenient stopping place. The weather had not improved much when we set off but we stuck to the plan and stopped overnight on the stellplatz outside the campsite at Lindau. It was not the best part of the lake but was fine for one night. Next day we made it to the border town of Freiburg.
FREIBURG We found the stellplatz in Freiburg quite easily and were welcomed by the friendly Manager, who spoke excellent English. His wife provided us with a map and information about the city. It was a bit of a step into the centre but having the map was a bonus as we probably would have gone wrong along the way, as we did in Augsburg. A determined English lady from a van near us also gave us detailed instructions, which actually confused us a bit! I remembered having been to Freiburg several years ago but I did not recognise it until we finally found the Altstadt. We must have stayed on a different stellplatz last time and approached from a different direction. It is a very bustling city full of students. We were helped by a lovely young man who saw we were lost in the back streets. He was pleased to practice his English with us. We only had a short time to spend here and the weather was inclement, but the old parts were well worth a visit.
After a couple of hours enjoying Freiburg we were ready to head back to the van and prepare for our trip across the border into France.
Looking back at my diary for May reminded me of some small pleasures. We had to attend an emergency eye appointment for Clyde at QA hospital in Portsmouth. This involved borrowing our daughters’ car (carefully sanitised), and we had the treat of speaking to the children from the end of their drive. Self shoulder hugs all round and blown kisses from 10 feet away.
The next day saw us creeping quietly from the house at 0600 complete with flask of coffee and enough sandwiches for breakfast and lunch. We had an eerie trip along the unusually quiet motorways and arrived in record time. We had time to park at the car park on Portsdown Hill where we enjoyed the view across to the harbour and Spinnaker Tower, glistening in the glorious sunlight. We had a small cup of coffee as there were no facilities open! I dropped Clyde off at the front of the hospital and went in search of somewhere to park. It was not easy as most of the car parking is now reserved for staff. I finally found a small space at the back of the site and awaited his return. When he emerged blinded by the eye drops, he could not see me and I had to resort to old lady style cooees! Back up the hill to enjoy our lunch sandwiches and have another small drop of coffee. No toilet trip for me, Clyde was lucky as he had found one in the hospital. I managed the drive back to Bedford before desperation set in. It is not easy travelling during lockdown.
It was now the 75th anniversary of VE day and we had a socially distanced street celebration. This involved sitting in the front gardens with our own picnics. However, we managed to chat to the neighbours, listen to music and enjoy the ambience.
15 May was the first time I had seen my best friend since before lockdown. The rules were now relaxed enough to be allowed to meet one other person outside at a distance of 2 metres. We met at the Country Park in Bedford and brought our own cup of tea and chocolate biscuits. We then had a walk around the lake in the sunshine. Odd to be together but apart.
It was such a lovely treat to see Gill and catch up with our news face to face, albeit at a distance.
There are a few empty pages in my diary for May, which reflects how my world seems to have shrunk. My highlights are my daily walks, now up to between 6 and 8 km per day, video calls with the children and grandchildren, and working on crochet projects. Thank goodness for the sunny weather enabling us to get out in the garden for some of our meals and reading our books. We are so lucky to have been able to move in with Clyde’s sister until we can get back on a campsite. We are also very grateful that so far, our family have remained well.
By the last week in May the lockdown had been relaxed further and we were able to meet some of the family in a local park with each household observing the 2 metre distance rule. We had also managed to find a buyer for the campervan as we had decided to look for something a bit more spacious. It was very sad to see it go as it has been our home since we started full time travelling in October 2017. Now we can proceed with the purchase of a replacement. More on that coming up.
We have now been in Bedford for 3 weeks and there are shocking death rates being reported daily across the UK. So far we have remained well, and the neighbours here are all pulling together to keep each other safe and provided for. Social distancing has been adhered to locally, apart from a few non compliers.
We are missing the children and grandchildren masses, but so far our family has remained well. We have been touched by the sorrow for so many families as the virus sweeps across the country taking so many lives.
I have managed to Nordic walk an average of 5 km per day for my daily exercise allocation. It seems a good idea to use this time to improve our fitness and diet, whilst dreaming of the open road. I am managing the fitness, not so good on diet thus far. Last week I made bread pudding to use up leftover rolls, as we are really focussing on limited excursions to the food shops and reducing waste. It was welcomed by Clyde and by Shane next door. However, after a disappointing scales experience, we have decided that in the weeks ahead, we will not have puddings or cake except on odd occasions.
This has been an opportunity for me to explore parts of Bedford I was previously unfamiliar with. The Spring weather has taken the sting out of the tail of this period of isolation. The blossom on the trees and the Spring bulbs, have been beautiful in the sunshine.
The natural beauty of Spring is there for all to enjoy. This year it was enhanced by the sounds of birdsong that are so often drowned out by traffic noise. This is the silver lining.
It is difficult to know where to start. As we dashed back to UK, the Corona Virus was already wreaking havoc in China and starting to be reported in Europe. By the time we had completed the medical appointments and moved on to visit Suzanne and family in Wantage, then Sarah and family in Great Barford, the virus was starting to change lives.
Almost as though we had got an inkling of things to come, I had decided it was time to visit my eldest brother in Bury St Edmunds. For a number of reasons, we have not seen each other for 15 years, and it was a lovely reunion. I also managed a coffee and cake session with my best mate Gill, which will have to keep us going for a while now. Thank goodness for phones, internet and social media!
We spent a few days in Great Barford, which meant we could do a bit of normal grandparent stuff with Molly and Jessica. A trip to Wimpole Hall, National Trust, was the last family outing before we left again.
Images courtesy of Jessica (age 11)
By Monday morning we had decided that we should remove ourselves into isolation, as Clyde is 79. We chose a Caravan and Motorhome Club site at Malvern and booked in for a week initially. We have been here before and so we knew that it is near the village of Hanley Swan and the small town of Great Malvern. The countryside is beautiful, and it was very deserted and peaceful on the campsite.
All was well, but we started to feel that we should perhaps move ourselves a bit closer to family and friends. We became concerned that if we should become unwell, we would have no support if we remained isolated here. There was also an increasing issue with people heading off to their holiday homes and caravan sites, rather than staying at home. This movement would put immense pressure on some areas and therefore, the Government initiated a further stage of the developing social isolation policy to reduce the spread of the virus. On the Sunday morning of our stay, the warden came to advise us that all campsites would be closing with immediate effect. We asked whether there was any leeway at all for those of us who live full time in our vans. He contacted his head office and came back to say they had agreed to let us stay long enough to make alternative arrangements. It was a big relief, as I had just hung out the washing!!
Joking aside, we are very fortunate to have Clyde’s sister in a house that is big enough for us to move in with her for a while. On the Monday morning we drove down to Gosport to collect Clyde’s prescription, then we drove up to Bedford to become cuckoos in Jean’s nest. We were just in time before more stringent restrictions on movement came into force. Any unnecessary travel was disallowed so we might have struggled to get to our destination.
We had to stay near to Portsmouth for the various medical appointments regarding Clyde’s ruptured Achilles Tendon, and his deteriorating eyesight. To that end we booked onto Chichester Camping and Caravan Club site at Southbourne. It is a lovely village between Emsworth and Chichester, with a fabulous farm shop, handy Co-op, and a regular bus service to Chichester and Portsmouth. I was surprised to discover a village called Prinstead, attached to Southbourne next to Chichester harbour. It is a lovely place to walk along the waterside and there are some pretty houses along the way too.
Once all the appointments were over and we had 6 weeks to wait for Clyde to see the consultant again, and have his leg scanned (currently in a boot), we moved on to family in Bedfordshire. Little did we realise how our lives were to change as the Coronavirus took hold across the world!!
Here we were, once again, travelling through France in Feb. Unlike last time, in 2018, we did not have snow, but we did have plenty of wind and rain. We needed to break the journey from Spain to UK into sensible driving distances and so we allowed ourselves 5 days. Most campsites were still closed but there are plenty of aires in France, some of which even have electric points. We were able to get drinking water in most places and there were facilities for emptying waste water and the toilet.
We really loved it here last time we visited, so decided to head there again. The drive from Burgos took nearly 5 hours, but we felt that we had bitten off a good chunk of the journey. It didn’t seem that way after another couple of days on the road! We were last here in Oct 17 and it was buzzing with activity due to the excellent surfing beaches. This time, it was much colder and extremely rough with some heavy rain late in the day. In the morning the bread van arrived bringing delicious French bread to cheer us on our way.
Nersac is in the Charente Department in South Western France, eight kilometers from Angouleme. The village is very pleasant with a very old church, a chateau that needs Dick and Angel’s attention, and an excellent patisserie. The aire is located behind the Marie’s building and provides free electricity. Campers are requested not to use the electric for running their heating. We were joined by an English couple who were on their way south; lucky them!
We had a stroll around the village between showers and enjoyed the view across the parkland, visited the church, and bought fabulous pastries to have with a reviving cup of Earl Grey tea.
We were here when the schoolchildren started coming home from school and then reappeared with musical instruments, heading for the music school in the village centre. Several of them bid us a cheery bonjour as they passed. We had a peaceful night, apart from the bonging of the church bells until 11pm and again from 0600!!
This village was a bit remote and there were roadworks in the village centre with a diversion alongside a canal. It was a bit confusing, but we found the aire which was surprisingly busy. The village is in a market gardening region near to Tours and looked as though it would be nice to wander round. However, the storm that was due to arrive around now, had started to make itself felt and we stayed in the warmth of the van. The aire is located on the outskirts of the village and is a short walk into the centre.
The weather was a bit better today, although breezy and a bit cold. By the time we got to Nonancourt, it was sunny and after a bit of lunch we went exploring. I enjoyed the architecture of this place and once again, the aire was situated alongside the Mairie and the riverside park.
This is a place with a history that starts back in 1112. There are some delightful buildings and a lovely riverside park. Unfortunately, we could not walk along the river as it was far too wet and muddy.
At last we were nearing the end of our journey home. We had an e.mail from DFDS advising that our ferry crossing on Sunday was cancelled due to the impending effects of storm Dennis. After much discussion we decided to see whether we could get a crossing on the tunnel instead. The difference in price was £8, so we looked for an aire away from the port, and the immigrants, and found one on a farm.
We arrived in a gale on Saturday, which was Clyde’s birthday, and headed round to the back of a large barn. It looked very modern and robust and provided some much needed shelter. To make his day complete, Clyde battled with the slightly primitive toilet emptying facilities, almost being blown away in the process! It was a far cry from last year’s birthday spent in Madrid. It was a very wild night and in the morning we were very concerned that we might not make it the few kilometers to Calais. However, we managed to keep on the road, which was very quiet, and arrived in time for the earlier crossing. It was certainly a lot faster and calmer travelling through the tunnel and we will probably use it again.
Back in the UK we drove through heavy rain and wind from Folkestone to Gosport and went straight to the minor injuries unit for his leg to be looked at. A ruptured Achilles Tendon was diagnosed and we headed to our usual car park to consider our next move. We were blissfully unaware of the excitement looming once we got into the medical system for Clyde’s leg and eye issues!!
For this trip we stopped on a campsite that had a bus stop outside the gate. It only took 10 minutes to get into the city and cost 1.20 euros each. The campsite was very shady and had obviously enjoyed the same wet weather as the rest of Spain. We were advised to pitch in the middle and still struggled to get free of the mud when we left.
Burgos has to be back on our list as we had terrible weather whilst we were there. It was cold and wet and after a visit to the cathedral, we could not face wandering around the town in the cold for the 4 hours until the next bus. I have put some pictures of the cathedral on here, and a few of the grand buildings around it, but there is definitely more on offer and that will get on the blog next time around.
It is said that Burgos cathedral is one of the most beautiful in Spain. We did not get that impression although the colours in the stained glass are rather wonderful. There are also some lovely carvings and statues. The cupolas are also quite unusual and very attractive.
Squares and streets around cathedral
Interior of Cathedral
As you can see, there was plenty to enjoy in and around the Cathedral, this is just a small selection. Interestingly, Clyde was allowed to have the concessionary discount here.
This was a fleeting visit to Burgos, on our long trek north towards home. However, it was a pleasure not to be missed and definitely to be repeated another time.
Merida was on our list for a visit so that was our next stop. Because we are cutting our trip short, we have put the white towns, Ronda and Cordoba back on the list.
Although the weather is not so good now, we have to stop somewhere and Merida is a convenient place. There is an aire near the centre so, although it is not very attractive, we settled for a night there. Merida is a town with lots of Roman ruins that are scattered around the less than attractive centre. We had a little exploration, saw the aqueduct, the Circo and then the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre. Well, I saw the theatre and amphitheatre as we could not have a concessionary rate for Clyde(we were denied it as we are not in the EU) and he was not really all that keen to see yet another Roman ruin. I paid 12 euros to go in and he sat outside in the sun.
I had been unimpressed with the ruins seen up to this point but, the theatre was worth a look. All Roman theatres were built in the same way and served the same purpose of educating the citizens and for political meetings. I had not seen one with the amphitheatre on the same site before. The photos say it all really:
The Spanish have a curious way of preserving their old ruins. We have seen numerous examples of repair to historic ruins, rather than preservation. That aside, we think that Merida would be worth another visit as we did not see everything. Maybe one day……
Bornos was a surprise as we had certainly never heard of it. We came upon it by accident really, as the aire we had intended to stay on at Arcos de Frontera was not as expected. I went back onto Search for Sites, and found a parking place near a lake, not far away. We had an exciting tour around and through Bornos trying to find the place, and eventually found our way to the small promenade instead. It was deserted apart from some workmen on a small building site, so we decided to stay there for the night. The lake, which is actually a reservoir, was lovely and I had a walk into the little town, which was unexpectedly pretty. It is in the Sierra de Cadiz, on the Pueblo Blanco route and has the usual white buildings as well as the Palacio de Los Ribera, which has attractive gardens.
We had a really peaceful night and recharged our batteries ready for gobbling up some more miles northwards. We got out of Bornos a little more easily than we got in by not using the SatNav!!
Having been off grid for a few days, I wanted to have a couple of days on a campsite so that I could do some washing and get all our equipment charged up. The best plan seemed to be a site at Cabopino with a bus stop nearby for catching the bus into Marbella. We arrived early afternoon and bagged the last pitch. It was obviously a popular place, although it was not really our preferred type of campsite. That notwithstanding, we settled onto our pitch and I headed off to the laundry. I met an English couple who advised me how to get to the little marina and the seafront which was handy, as we would not have found it.
It was a bit of a tricky walk to the marina, which was a poor effort after Almerimar. We did find a nice bar which had the rugby on, and there were lots of Ex-Pats there enjoying the match over a glass of beer/wine/gin……We joined them and rested our legs ready for the uphill walk back to the site. It was too much of a walk for Clyde really, so next day, I left him at home and went for a nice walk along the boardwalk through the nature reserve along the sand dunes. It was a much nicer experience than the marina. The dunes are protected and the wildlife is evidence of the success. It makes a very pleasant place to spend time as there are picnic areas as well as the beach which is accessible via boardwalk extensions.
Having got the washing dry and ironed, it was time to move on again. We were very reluctant to move away from the sun but the campsite was too shady, so we agreed that a day or two at the marina at La Linea, near Gibraltar would be rather lovely. We arrived there in glorious sunshine and I had planned to walk into Gib for a spot of shopping next day. Sadly, the bad weather arrived in the early evening, planes were cancelled and we had ships foghorns sounding all evening. Next morning we awoke to a damp, foggy day and decided to call it quits. It was time to start heading north on the long trek home.
Almerimar marina is a very popular spot and it is necessary to arrive at the marina late morning to jump into spots vacated by people who are moving on. It can be quite a cut throat process at times! On this occasion, we found a spot by the lighthouse and got talking to someone who had a better place overlooking the boats. They were moving on next day and came to let us know when they were about to move off. We were ready for me to run with our chairs and bag it immediately. You can’t believe you would ever behave in such a strange way! It was well worth the effort as we sat with our door slid back and surveyed our lovely view.
The marina is really the jewel in the crown at Almerimar. The seafront stretches in both directions and has lovely sandy beaches which must be ideal for families. There are plenty of small shops, bars and restaurants around the marina to provide interest too.
The sun and lovely view were so alluring that we stayed longer than originally planned. However, we had heard from the hospital with an appointment for Clyde’s replacement knee operation which spurred us into action. We had thought it might be nice to visit Marbella for a change, so we found another grateful recipient of our fab pitch, and moved on once more.
We are on the marina at Almerimar for a couple of days. We stayed here two years ago and decided we would like to revisit. There was a crowd of campers lined up along the marina edge, like paparazzi, marvelling at this amazing sky.
It was now the middle of January and we were still lazing in the sun! It was time to move again but not too far, so we decided on Puerto de Mazarron. Just along the coast is a small village called Bolnuevo and we rather fancied staying there and catching a bus into Puerto de Mazarron. We had a choice of an ACSI site or a free camping spot on a large car park at the end of the village. We plumped for the campsite and were glad we had when the weather took a dramatic turn a few days later.
Bolnuevo does not have a lot to offer but does have a small SPAR shop that stocks absolutely everything, and quite a few bars and restaurants. The promenade is nicely paved and runs along behind the high street and a row of old fishermans cottages.
The sandy beach is very wide and would be a lovely place to bring children.
At the end of the bay there is a rocky area that leads to more coves and the naturist beaches.
There are plenty of nice walks around this area. In the opposite direction you can walk across the beach towards Puerto de Mazarron. It would be quite a long walk, but definitely doable.
I was not expecting to come across the Erosions at the end of the prom. It was a huge surprise as we had not researched the village at all. They are at the base of some mountains and at the back of the free motorhome parking area. These are natural limestone sculptures also called Gredas De Bolnuevo, known as the “Enchanted Landscape”.
The other notable place to visit is the Torre de Los Caballos. This is one of a series of towers that were built along the coast to provide protection from the Barbary pirates in the 16th century. The tower in Bolnuevo is now attached to the chapel. There is a tale about the intervention of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception on the occasion of an invasion on 17 Nov 1585. The village was saved from the invasion due to the intervention. This event is commemorated every 17 November with a pilgrimage to Mazarron bearing the image of the Virgin. There is a statue of the Virgin on the top of the tower.
Having said there is not much here, it is surprising how much this little village has to offer.
The evening sunset on the Saturday was a harbinger of the terrible weather to come when storm Gloria hit the eastern side of Spain. We were treated to three days of heavy rain, strong winds and a drop in temperatures. There were floods and storm damage all along the coast. In Alicante and Valencia provinces the snow fell and caused chaos.
Oh, I nearly forgot to mention Puerto De Mazarron! We took the bus on our third day in Bolnuevo. The best part is the marina with it’s bustling bars and variety of fishing boats and private small yachts. We were sidetracked from our exploration by getting chatting to a nice couple who were enjoying a peaceful drink. We soon put paid to that and joined them for a coffee and a natter. Before we knew it we needed to get going to catch our bus back. We intended to return but with the change in the weather, we had to abandon the idea. Oh well, there is always next year.